ACAPULCO & PEURTO ESCONDITO

22 September 2006
ACAPULCO
After a 5 hour bus journey through windy hills and 3 stops along the way, we finally got a glimpse of the ocean and were in Acapulco. I must say that the city has dwindled into a giant mess since James Bond set foot on this once sleepy town. I was disillusioned at the touting, the pollution and the general chaos of the city. We did however meet Roas and Mika from the Netherlands and Sophia from Switzerland and got a great bargain on the hotel – a room with 4 Queen beds for 300pesos which works out to be 60 pesos (USD6) per person!

We walked through the Zocalo (city center) and grabbed a bite (they served free tequila shots as dessert which I refused! NAS-TY!) before heading to the Cliff Diving point – apparently one of the highlights. I must admit I figured we’d be doing our share of “getting loco” by having a little tequila and dancing on the beach – but we did none of that. Instead, I saw the true meaning of Going Loco in Acapulco. For a 35 peso entrance, we saw a group of local boys scaling a steep cliff – about ten stories high – and diving into a narrow gorge! Two altars lay at the peak, where they each said their prayers before making the jump, the last of which included a stunt with fire.

Our day at the beach the next day was even more disappointing. The water was far from crystal. A couple we met said they found a syringe in the water. Can you imagine?! All in all, Acapulco was a huge disappointment and should definitely be skipped entirely.

23 September 2006
PEURTO ESCONDITO
The 9 hour journey through the night was grueling to say the least. Being tossed from side to side along with the sharp turns and dealing with at least 70 speed bumps (the bus halts to about 2 mph each time) didn’t allow me to sleep much at all (Jem knocked out like he’d been hit by a bus, instead of riding in one) except for the last hour naturally – we had to be woken up to get off the bus. Met an Irish couple – Tadhg and Emma – on the bus and we ended up getting rooms next to each other at Pepe Cabanas. It’s a simple place, but the east facing view from our balcony is breathtaking – especially at 7am when we arrived. We enjoyed sunrise for the first time in many many years.

Jem explored the town a little whilst I took a much needed nap. Off we went to the closest beach – Playa Principal and saw a fisherman and his daughter who had just caught a giant swordfish! It was so unreal and plastic looking! We headed for lunch nearby and both ordered pescada al ajo – fish fillet with garlic – a specialty in the area. When it arrived, I was sure they had messed up the order and had given me chicken instead. It sure as hell did not look anything like the soft juicy white fleshed fish we were so used to eating at Aunty Pam’s. We struggled through the first couple of bites but it was seriously unpalatable! Curious as to what the waitress had served us, we asked and she pointed to a mounted fish on the wall… a giant swordfish!!! EWWW!




We spent the afternoon at a couple of beaches in the area. Playa Carrizalillo was filled with the “hip, backpacker crowd” sunbathing, surfing, swimming. Jem loved it! I on the other hand thought it was a little too crowded and spent my time under the shade with fresh orange juice, chatting with Sophia … We headed to two nearby beaches, Playa Manzanillo and Angelito where it was a little more serene, but the ocean floor a little too rocky.



Walking back, we came across a rotisserie chicken place and could not resist buying a chicken for dinner. We brought it back up to our cabana balcony and like a couple of savages, devoured it with our hands. What a mess – thoroughly enjoyable though. We spent the night at a couple of bars around Zicatella and Principal, chatting away with other backpackers… Anna from Sweeden told me about this great beach in Nicaragua which is perfect for learning how to surf. Apparently the gradient is so gentle and the waves so perfect –which makes for an excellent learning ground for beginners. I’m actually considering it…


Sophia, Jem, Emma & Tadhg